Chapter · Diving

Maldives

What living and working in paradise looks like from the other side

The Maldives looks exactly like the photographs.

That may actually be part of the problem.

Turquoise water, white beaches, boats, reefs and resorts built around the idea of escape. For the guests arriving for a week or two, that is exactly what it is.

When you live and work there, the same place starts to feel very different.

Living where you work

One of the biggest differences between visiting the Maldives and working there is that there is very little separation between your job and the rest of your life.

You do not finish work and disappear into a city.

You do not commute home.

You stay on the same island.

You eat there.

You sleep there.

You see the same people.

You walk the same paths.

Even a day off can still feel like you are inside the same working environment.

The surroundings are beautiful, but they are also physically limited.

There is ocean in every direction.

That can feel peaceful.

It can also make the world feel very small.

On a resort island, paradise can also be a very small place.

Resort interior overlooking the ocean at sunset in the Maldives
Living where other people come to escape.

Diving when diving becomes work

Manta ray swimming overhead while diving in the Maldives
A manta ray overhead in the Maldives.

Diving is different when it is no longer something you choose to do only for yourself.

For the guests, a dive in the Maldives may be one of the highlights of their entire trip.

They may have saved for months or years to be there.

They are excited.

Everything is new.

For the person working there, tomorrow there is another boat, another group, another briefing and another working day.

The reef is still beautiful.

The water is still clear.

The marine life is still there.

But repetition changes the way you experience it.

Something extraordinary can gradually become part of the routine.

That does not mean you stop appreciating it.

It means you stop experiencing it in the same way as the person who arrived yesterday.

When work and life become the same place

School of reef fish over coral in clear blue water in the Maldives

There is something psychologically different about having nowhere else to go at the end of the day.

In a normal job, even a difficult one, you usually leave the workplace.

There is a physical change.

You go home.

You meet different people.

You enter a different environment.

On a small island, those boundaries can disappear.

The person you worked with during the day may be the same person sitting beside you at dinner.

The people around you are often connected to the same workplace.

The island itself becomes the office, the home and the social environment at the same time.

That can create a strong sense of community.

It can also become claustrophobic.

There is very little distance between your working life and your personal life.

And sometimes distance is exactly what you need.

The strange effect of repetition

Human beings get used to almost anything.

That includes beautiful places.

At first, the water stops you.

The colour of it.

The beaches.

The fact that you are living somewhere people normally see in travel advertisements.

Then slowly it becomes the background.

You stop photographing everything.

You stop thinking about how unusual it is.

You start thinking about the next shift.

The next boat.

The next group.

The next problem that needs to be solved.

Paradise does not disappear.

It simply becomes normal.

And once something becomes normal, you start seeing everything around it that the photographs never showed.

Would I go back?

Yes — but there are two different answers.

As a guest

Absolutely.

The Maldives is still one of the most beautiful places I have seen. I would happily go back to dive, enjoy the reefs, spend time on the water and experience the islands without having to depend on them for work.

As a dive instructor

Yes, but differently.

I would keep my mouth shut more and play the game when necessary instead of expecting the environment to work by the same rules I would choose for myself.

I would go back with much clearer boundaries and a much better understanding of how the system works.

Lived first. Written later.

This chapter became Island Collapse

Koh Tao showed me how easily paradise can become routine.

The Maldives took that idea somewhere else entirely.

Living and working on an island built around other people's holidays showed me the gap between visiting paradise and depending on it for your livelihood.

Those two experiences eventually became Island Collapse.